Denali Overview
Denali National Park is vast, wild, and intentionally undeveloped. Planning ahead makes a huge difference in how much you are able to experience and how comfortable you will feel once you arrive.
The Park Road
Denali is a six million acre park with a single 92-mile road running through it. Private vehicles are only allowed on the first 15 miles. Beyond that point, travel is limited to park-operated buses.
Road access can change due to weather or landslides, so check the current conditions while planning your trip. During our visit, the road was closed at mile 43, but there was still plenty to see and do.
Bus Options
There are two main bus types:
- Narrated tour buses (tan): Guided tours with no option to get on and off.
- Transit buses (green): Non-narrated buses that allow you to get on and off anywhere along the road. These still stop for wildlife sightings, and many drivers share park facts along the way.
My recommendation is to go with the green buses. It’s cheaper and you get the same view of the park with on/off flexibility for hiking or exploring.
Hiking in Denali
Denali has very few marked trails. Once you are past mile 15, off-trail hiking is encouraged. You can walk along riverbeds, tundra, or simply follow the road. This freedom is incredible, but it requires preparation, navigation awareness, and respect for wildlife.
Ranger-led Discovery Hikes are off-trail, ranger-guided hikes designed to introduce visitors to Denali terrain. These must be signed up for in person at the Denali Visitor Center one to two days in advance and are seasonal, typically ending after Labor Day. Learn more here.
Wildlife
Wildlife sightings are common and unpredictable. Moose, grizzly bears, caribou, and Dall sheep roam freely throughout the park.
- Carry bear spray, and know how to use it
- Make noise when visibility is limited
- Maintain safe distances at all times
- Hike in groups whenever possible
Arrival in Denali
Today kicked off our Denali leg with a drive from Anchorage and a first stop at the Denali Visitor Center. We always like to start here to chat with rangers about the park and hiking options. We had planned to sign up for a ranger-led Discovery Hike, but unfortunately they stop running after Labor Day so we missed it by just one day. Even so, the stop was helpful for talking through alternative hiking options and getting clarity on bus tickets. From there, we headed to the Denali Bus Depot to purchase transit bus tickets for the following day, which I’d recommend doing early if you can.
We then drove the first 15 miles of the park road, keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife. September is a great time for moose activity, and we saw several along the road. Near the Savage Alpine area (mile 15), we spotted a grizzly family in the distance.
After exploring the park road, we grabbed dinner and stocked up on snacks for the next day before checking into McKinley Creekside Cabins. We quickly changed and headed out for our ATV tour.
The ATV tour itself was fun and offered a different perspective of the area, though it’s worth noting that it does not take place inside the park. The pace was fairly slow, but it was technical in spots, weaving through water crossings and over rocky terrain. Group sizes are on the larger side, so when we saw that, we rushed to grab the ATV directly behind the guide to avoid getting stuck behind less confident drivers. That ended up being a great move. Overall, it was enjoyable, but I wouldn’t call it a must-do. The FOMO here is low, but it was still a unique way to kick off our Denali stay.
Travel tips
- The drive from Anchorage to Denali takes about 4.5 hours
- Stop at the Denali Visitor Center first to get yourself oriented
- Purchase timed bus tickets as soon as you can, either in person or online
- If you plan to hike, stock up on snacks ahead of time
- For ATV tours, wear waterproof layers and expect mud and water
Activities
Overnight: McKinley Creekside Cabins, Denali
This stay was surprisingly affordable given its proximity to the park entrance (15 min drive). The creekside setting and mountain views made it feel peaceful and remote, while still being close to restaurants and services. The rooms were well-appointed and comfortable, the staff was excellent, and free parking was available on site.
Full day in Denali
This was a full day dedicated to exploring deep into Denali. We grabbed coffee and breakfast at our lodging before heading to the bus depot to catch our scheduled green transit bus.
The green buses run back and forth along the park road throughout the day, roughly every 15 to 30 minutes. I highly recommend riding all the way to the end of the road before getting off, and paying attention along the way to interesting spots you might want to explore on the return.
On the ride in, we spotted moose, caribou, grizzly bears, and Dall sheep. While you can’t hop off and back on just for wildlife sightings, the buses do stop so you can snap photos through the windows.
We got off at Mile 43, which was as far as we could go that day, and hiked along the East Fork River. It was a great introduction to hiking in Denali’s wilderness – off-trail but easy to navigate along the open riverbed. Other hikers were around as well, making it feel safer.
On the way back, we planned to do another off-trail hike. However, given the size of the park and the presence of wildlife, we decided to be intentional about our route and chose the Mount Margaret option near mile 17. This is an unmaintained social trail rather than an official path. The first half-mile was dense and brushy, and we made plenty of noise as we pushed through.
Once the trail opened up, the views were expansive and surreal, stretching for miles without a single person or vehicle in sight. At the summit, we spotted a grizzly mother with two nearly grown cubs in the distance. They were far enough away to avoid a surprise encounter but close enough to remind us whose territory we were in. We turned around promptly and headed back to the road.
After a long and unforgettable day, dinner at Prospectors Pizzeria was the perfect way to unwind, with pizza and a brownie dessert providing a satisfying end to our adventure.
Travel tips
- Ride the transit bus all the way to the end of the road first, making note of where you might want to get off on the return trip.
- Allow extra time when flagging down a bus to go back out, especially later in the day
- Wear layers and expect rapid weather changes
- Carry bear spray and know how to use it
Activities
- Denali transit bus
- East Fork River hike
- Mount Margaret off-trail hike
Food
- Prospectors Pizzeria
Denali to Talkeetna
On our last day in Denali, we checked out of our lodging and made one final stop in the park to look for wildlife—always a favorite activity. Early September brought a stunning display of fall colors, and I couldn’t get enough of the vibrant leaves.
There are plenty of ways to spend this day. If you want more hiking, the Savage Alpine Trail is a great option. Alternatively, you could take a slow morning, enjoy breakfast, and then start heading toward Anchorage or Talkeetna at a relaxed pace. Depending on your flight schedule, it’s possible to drive straight back to Anchorage, but the 4.5-hour drive felt too tight for us. Talkeetna, about halfway, was a perfect stop.
The drive from Denali to Talkeetna has a few scenic pull-offs. Keep an eye out for Mount McKinley. Sadly, we never got to see her due to weather (belive it or not 70% of visitors never actually see the mountain).
We made quick stops at the Alaska Veterans Memorial and the Hurricane Gulch Bridge.
In Talkeetna, we stayed at a charming riverside lodge. We explored the town, visiting Denali Brewing Co. and Alaska Cider Works. We also snuck into the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge lobby for wine and coffee by the fireplace—a cozy spot we wished we had stayed in overnight to relax more.
The next morning was easy and unhurried. We drove the 2.5 hours back to Anchorage, returned our rental car, and spent some time at the airport before our late flight home, reflecting on an unforgettable trip.
Travel tips
- Denali to Talkeetna: ~3 hours
- Talkeetna to Anchorage: ~2.5 hours
- Pull off at scenic spots along the route, and weather permitting, views of Mount McKinley
Food
- Denali Brewing Co.
- Alaska Cider Works
- Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge
Overnight (Talkeetna): Susitna River Lodging
It was fine for one night, very well priced, and had no complaints. However, I would recommend checking out Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge if your budget allows. I would have liked to stay there just for the lobby alone.
For an overview on the entire Alaska trip, check out Wildlife, Glaciers, and Adventure: 11 days in Alaska.