The next part of the trip focuses on Seward and Kenai Fjords National Park, where we balanced scenic drives, wildlife, and unforgettable outdoor adventures. We explored Kenai Fjords National Park by boat, cruising past tidewater glaciers and abundant marine life, before checking off a major bucket-list item with ice climbing on Exit Glacier.
For an overview on the entire Alaska trip, check out Wildlife, Glaciers, and Adventure: 11 days in Alaska.
Homer to Seward
We started the day with breakfast in Homer at BB’s Bakery, which was fantastic but sadly closed permanently shortly after our trip. Luckily, Homer still has plenty of great breakfast options to choose from.
We then began our scenic drive back toward Seward. We passed Russian River Falls and considered stopping for a hike, but the road was closed, so we skipped it. It is known as a good place to potentially spot bears, which makes it appealing but also something to research carefully and approach with caution.
After our long tour the day before, we kept things leisurely. We stopped for lunch at Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge, which offered beautiful views and cozy, lodge-style vibes, making it a great place to relax and reflect on the trip so far.
Once we arrived in Seward, we checked into Stellar Inn, where we stayed for the next three nights. Our first stop in Seward was the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center. We always like to start our national park trips with a stop at the visitor center to speak with rangers, get advice, and pick up guidebooks or souvenirs.
Since it was a very rainy day, we decided to do the Alaska SeaLife Center. The up-close views of Alaskan birds and marine life were interesting, but given the ticket price, it did not feel like a must-see. If we had skipped it, we would have spent the time bar hopping, eating, or shopping. Another option if the weather is good would be to drive the road to Exit Glacier Trailhead and enjoy the views or check the hiking trails near Exit Glacier / Harding Icefield Trailhead.
We wrapped up the day with small plates and a wine tasting at Primrose Provisions, a charming boutique shop serving wine and light bites.
Travel tips
- Homer to Seward is about a 3.5 hour drive, not including stops.
- Have ideas of what you might want to do if it’s rainy – Seward is a temperate rainforest afterall.
- Stop by the Kenai Fjords Visitor Center or drive the road to Exit Glacier Trailhead when you arrive.
Activities
- Alaska SeaLife Center visit (interesting, but not worth the price unless you have limited alternatives)
Food
- Homer breakfast options: Two Sisters Bakery, Wild Honey Bistro, The Bagel Shop, Captain’s Coffee (great biscuits & gravy)
- Lunch (on the way to Seward): Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge
- Dinner: Primrose Provisions
Overnight: Stellar Inn, Seward
The location was excellent, close to downtown Seward and the road leading to Exit Glacier. The inn was small, quiet, and comfortable, with parking right outside the room. A nice unexpected perk was that they offered free bear spray left behind by other travelers. The bed was comfortable, though the open shower design left water on the floor and parking spots in front of our room were sometimes taken by other guests. Minor inconveniences, but worth noting.
Kenai Fjords boat tour
We spent the entire day exploring Kenai Fjords National Park by boat. Most of the park is only accessible by water, and boat tours give you up-close views of tidewater glaciers, fjords, coves, and inlets, plus abundant marine wildlife like whales, otters, seals, sea lions, puffins, and seabirds.
There are multiple tour options, and while you can’t go wrong, it’s worth checking the different routes if there’s something specific you want to see. We booked the 7.5-hour Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise via Major Marine Tours, which took us past two impressive tidewater glaciers — Aialik Glacier and Holgate Glacier — and offered dramatic mountain scenery all around. We also cruised past the iconic sea stacks in Aialik Bay.
After the tour, we headed to nearby Tidewater Taphouse for dinner. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the food and craft drinks hit the spot.
Finally, we took a scenic drive along Herman Leirer Road towards Exit Glacier. The day before had been too cloudy to see anything, but this time the glacier was clearly visible from the road. The drive was quick and easy, offering mountain views and a chance to spot bears, which are occasionally seen in this area.
Travel tips
- Take something for motion sickness (Dramamine)
- Stay on the top deck as much as possible – great for views and avoiding seasickness.
- Dress in warm, waterproof layers
- Bring a backpack, camera, binoculars, water, snacks
- They provide drinks and food but it’s nice to have stuff on hand
Activities
- Major Marine tours
- We did the 7.5 hour tour but they have a variety of tour options
Food
- Breakfast/Coffee: Summit Sips
- Dinner: Tidewater Taphouse
Ice climbing Exit Glacier
Today we checked off a major bucket list item with ice climbing on Exit Glacier. We booked the Intermediate Ice Climbing trip with Exit Glacier Guides. They offer both beginner and intermediate options, with the main difference being how many climbing locations you access and how much time you spend on the ice. You’re not required to start with the beginner trip as long as you’re comfortable with climbing, rappelling, and hiking.
Although we had never ice climbed before, we’ve done rock climbing and rappelling several times, so we felt confident choosing the intermediate tour. Both tours begin with the same hike, about two hours long and predominantly uphill. It was challenging, especially with my fast-paced group that I think was part mountain goat… but manageable and rewarding.
The hike winds through wooded terrain, past a small waterfall, and opens to stunning views of Exit Glacier and the surrounding mountains. At the top, we stopped briefly to change into our ice climbing boots and adjust layers before stepping onto the glacier.
Walking on top of a glacier was surreal. Descending into the crevasses felt even more otherworldly, surrounded by towering blue ice, trickling meltwater, and a quiet peace. The guides set up two climbing locations, where you could rappel down as far as you felt comfortable and then climb your way back out. It was physically demanding in the best way, and I was glad I had trained leading up to this trip. For me, four climbs felt like the perfect number of climbs.
Drinking fresh glacier water straight from the ice is something I never imagined doing and will never forget. And very refreshing after a challenge ice climb!
Our guides were fantastic: knowledgeable, professional, and fun. We felt completely safe the entire time. The group was small, just six people total, which made the experience even better and felt like we made some new friends out on the ice. I brought my GoPro, which was clutch, and another climber brought a mirrorless camera. Brave choice, but grateful for the incredible photos he captured.
Exit Glacier is receding quickly, which added a deeper level of appreciation to the whole experience. Our guide even had an “RIP Exit Glacier” tattoo on his leg, which just goes to show how quickly this landscape is changing.
We ended the day with dinner at Flamingo Lounge, treating ourselves to the ultimate post-adventure surf and turf: crab legs, steak, and halibut bites. Exactly what we needed after an intense day.
Travel tips
- Dress for the hike, not the climb, but bring your layers in your pack. The uphill hike is strenuous and you’ll work up a sweat.
- They provide ice climbing boots, crampons, a backpack, and trekking poles.
- For the climb, fleece layers and waterproof outer layers work best.
- Sunglasses are a must to protect your eyes from flying ice.
Activities
- Exit Glacier Guides
- Exit Glacier Intermediate Ice Climbing Trip
Food
- Dinner: Flamingo Lounge (reservations recommended)
Seward to Anchorage
We started the morning in Seward with coffee from Summit Sips and breakfast sandwiches from The Porthole food truck. After a long and intense day of ice climbing, this day was intentionally low-key, and we welcomed the slower pace. We took our breakfast to go, pulled off at a scenic overlook, and enjoyed it while soaking in the views.
We took our time driving back to Anchorage, stopping at a few scenic spots along the way. Tern Lake was a favorite, where we lingered for photos and watched loons and trumpeter swans paddling across the water. We also stopped at the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center and hiked the Byron Glacier Trail, an easy and scenic walk that was the perfect way to stretch our legs without overdoing it.
By late afternoon, we arrived back in Anchorage and checked in once again at Snob Hollow Inn, staying in the Christensen Room like we did on our first night. It was nice to return somewhere familiar. We left our car parked and headed out to 49th State Brewery, which is conveniently right up the street. We grabbed some delicious food and beers and spent the evening relaxing.
Travel tips
- The drive from Seward to Anchorage takes about 2.5 hours without stops
- This is a great day to stay flexible and build in extra time for scenic pull-offs, short hikes, or even a morning tour in Seward.
Activities
- Byron Glacier Trail hike (easy 2.2 miles out and back)
- Begich, Boggs Visitor Center
- Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (we skipped it, but heard great things if you want to see wildlife up close)
Food
- Seward: The Porthole (food truck)
- Anchorage: 49th State Brewery
Overnight: Snob Hollow Inn, Anchorage
We stayed in the Christensen Room with a shared bathroom, which initially gave us pause but ended up working perfectly. The bathroom felt private and was never an issue, and the stay offered a comfortable bed, great location, and excellent value—an easy recommendation for a budget-friendly stay in Anchorage.